Lviv is a city in western Ukraine, around 70 km from the Polish border. Even the most varied names Lviv, Lwów or Lemberg point to the checkered history of the city. Traces of its Polish and Austro-Hungarian past can be seen in the architecture, which combines Central and Eastern European, Italian and German styles. “In Lemberg the old Europe went down. The center of the continent became a black hole, only to be forgotten afterwards. Anyone looking for her today will find a wound that is still open. The history of Lemberg is the history of many Central European cities that were wiped out and depopulated by the great powers Germany and Russia.” Anyone who wants to understand history and the conflict between Ukraine and Russia that has continued to this day should read Lutz C. Klevemann’s book “Lemberg – the forgotten center of Europe”. I visited Lviv and the surrounding region in western Ukraine in 2018 and 2019 and was struck by the unbridled national pride, deep orthodox beliefs and striving for a modern state within the European community. The pictures on display should give a small impression of this still carefree time. Where until recently happiness and exuberance dominated the streets and squares with locals and tourists, streams of refugees are now shaping the street scene again.